El Boqueron
El Boqueron (big mouth) as it is popularly known, is a steep sided gorge near Tonala , hewn by the surging waters of the river mixteco. Along with being a beautiful spot, teeming with fauna and wildlife, it also has camping zones to stay the night by the river.
The basin of the gorge is covered by wild flowers whilst live oaks and the low lying forest that clings to it's sheer slopes. A varitey of different animals snuffle around in the undergrowth, from badgers, foxes and coyotes to racoons and iguanas. Pumas have also been spotted slinking around and in the early mornings deer can be found skitting around the cliffs and tearing recklessly down to the river below to drink. Locals are also fond of recounting a rumour that two escaped circus lions dwell in El Boqueron.
The entrance to the canyon is by the steel arched Morelos bridge, from which steps take you down to the walk way that leads around the canyons side. You can follow this or take another roughly hewn staircase that leads right down to the river. If you take the walkway you will eventually arrive at a dam inaugurated by Gustav Díaz Ordaz in 1968. Past this dam lies a more informal trail where things get really interesting.
The winding riverside track leads around to a secluded campspot, a rough clearing with a wooden latrine nearby. It is possible to camp under the shade of the large trees that surround the site or even on the sandy bank of the river itself. The organization "ecomixtonalli" cleared and run the spot and also provide guides for El Boqueron, knowledgable locals from Tonala. The group charges 300 pesos for use of the campsite and 200 pesos for a guide to walk you the length of the canyon.
Further on from the campsite site it's possible to cross the river on a precarious looking bridge made from three steel cords dril into the rock face. It looks like something from Indiana Jones but it is quite safe and good fun to cross. If you make the effort the river curves round into a deep pool which presents a chance to swim in the cool water. In Winter and Spring. Still further on lie the "miradores" look out points posted up in the trees again by Ecomixtonalli. Take an early morning hike to these points and, at certain times of the year, you will be rewarded by an unbeatable view of the canyon, and a chance to see the deer take their early morning stroll down to the river.
The canyon runs for a further 10 miles through a deep wild gorge with no discernible track, but plenty of opportunity for climbing over boulders and rough hiking by the side of the river.
Getting to El Boqueron from Huajuapan is relatively straightforward. Taxis marked "Tonala" on their windscreens leave from the street 5 de Febrerro, two blocks up from the towns big supermarket, Aurrera Bordega and cost 25 pesos per person. Just tell the driver you want to be dropped at El Boqueron. Taxis also go from Tonala to the canyon, just ask in the town.
John Holman